Five years ago, on this day, we started this epic journey, the memories of which are still very fresh in our minds. This journey was a litmus test of our young relationship and we passed it with flying colours. A lot has happened in the past 5 years – we took many road-trips – drove to Bhutan, did several non-stop 24+hours drives. Crazy as we are, we even drove over the weekend to Mumbai and back. We made some wonderful friends and lost touch with a few. All that said, our Laddakh odyssey was a significant milestone of our lives. We still remember, vividly, the details of our experience at Baralacha Pass and our night at a homestay in Upsi or camping in Panamik.
The important thing is that we have been able to sustain the spark – both in our relationship and our passion for driving and travelling.
We wish to travel the world, together and drive wherever we can and we hope we will
Neha & Puneit
An unforgettable road trip with my sweetheart,spanning more than 3500 km in 9days, witnessing tough terrains, snow clad mountains, traversed world’s top 3 highest motorable mountain passes [1st Khardung La, 2nd Tanglang La & 3rd Chang La], did rafting in Sonamarg, Camel Safari in Hunder – Nubra, visited war-memorials in Kargil & Drass, witnessed snow fall at Khardung La, hailstorm in Bilaspur & camped at Panamik, Nubra. Rescued people and got rescued. To sum it up, it was an ultimate road trip with one of the best roads in India (NH 1) to one of the worst & unimaginable terrains – we drove it all – right from mud, snow, ice, rocks, drains, rivers & torrents, broken bridges, dust storm, hail storm, heavy rainfall, broken roads, no roads, off-roads without any damage to the car. We are glad to have completed the Delhi -Srinagar-Leh- Manali-Delhi circuit when everyone said it was not possible to cover…
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Most people when first hear of Kasol, confuse it with Kasoli. This is because, Kasol is an offbeat Himalayan town situated very close to the Sikh shrine of Manikaran. Manikaran is famous for two reasons or the combination of the two reasons – one, it hosts a famous Sikh temple (gurudwara) and two, it has hot water springs. Kasol has some feathers to its hat as well. It is famous amongst the Israelis and Italian tourists and it is famous for hash and marijuana.
Neha and I had traveled to Rishikesh with our new couple friends – Sonal and Amitoz the week earlier and since then, we all were pretty worked up about another trip. Initially, Neha and I had planned for Kanha Tiger Reserve but that was sold out completely; thus, our plan shifted from tiger spotting to cooling ourselves off in the hills. Sonal was quite keen on going to Kasol and its surrounding areas as she had been hearing travel stories from her office colleagues and wanted to explore and experience this part of the country. The dates decided for the trip were 12-16 June 2014. As we inched closer to the departure dates, each one of us started researching on the different aspects of the trip. Amitoz bought camping gear after I ranted and yapped about how cool and exciting experience camping is.
This opened an option of camping- either at Kasol or Tosh. While Neha and Sonal looked up hotels and their reviews, I checked out the route plan, road condition and overall review of these places from HV Kumar. At the same time, I wrote to Dheeraj Sharma of Devil on Wheels for his inputs. Gurgaon to Kasol: Thursday 12 June 2014 1 am to 3.30 pm Thanks to the inputs from HVK Facebook forum, we were aware that the road up to Bilaspur, Himachal Pradesh has heavy traffic and one must start early to munch as many miles as possible. Thus, we started at 1 am from Gurgaon and by 1.15 am we had picked up Sonal & Amitoz from their home and we embarked on our journey. We found traffic right from NH8 and this forced us to take the internal roads of Delhi to reach the Burari turn to NH1. We stopped over at Gulshan Dhabba for food and bought some folk Punjabi music CDs from one the shops near by. Our next stopover was for fuel near Ambala and then we
took the Shambhu – Roopnagar road towards Bilaspur. Our plan was to cross Bilaspur before 7 am but we entered Swarghat by only 7. We were running behind schedule but it was not that a big deal. Neha and I were alternating the driving after every hour or so and our next halt was after Bilaspur for food. By this time, Dheeraj Sharma responded to my query and connected me to Doulos Jose (who happens to work in the same building that I do- small world). Doulos had been to Kasol a week before and he gave us valuable tips about the place. Through Doulos we got in touch with Om Negi who runs a camping site just outside Kasol. So, while we ordered Maggi and some paranthas, I called up Om Negi and told him about our arrival plans and fixed up a meeting. The journey from Bilaspur to Bhunter was smoother than earlier and much faster. We reached Bhunter around half past one and bought some beers and breezers. At Kasol we met up one of the camp organizers Hemu Negi (cousin of Om) who helped us finding a secure parking spot and started the 25 minutes walk to the camp.
To reach the camp, we had to walk across a narrow suspension bridge over the raging Parvati river. What followed then, was a beautiful nature trail. We did get a bit impatient and kept bothering Hemu with the repeated questions “are we there yet”? The camping site was towards the right of the nature trail and we came across a cemented house overlooking a vast stretch of leveled land with several tents pitched on it.
We scouted for a place closest to the river and pitched our tents. While we were close to the river, we were at a safe distance and at an elevation of about 5 feet. We settled and ordered some pakodas and then climbed down the rocks and tried the water. It was at 10C and we could not bring ourselves to taking a dip in the river. The water was perfect for chilling the drinks that we brought along. We took some photographs and spent nearly an hour at the rocks. We returned to our camp and played a game of cards and also couple of games of badminton and then as the night approached, fatigue started to creep in.
We were awake since the day before, slogged off our asses as corporate slaves and then embarked on this road trip practically without rest.
Dinner came in- chicken gravy, chapatis and vegetarian food for Sonal. Along with the food, came some unwanted guests- dogs. There were several of them around. I would presume these stayed on the property to guard against the wild animals on the prowl in the neighboring forests. The chicken didn’t taste like chicken and the it had been cut into way too small pieces. We didn’t fancy it as much but then when you go camping, this was like elixir from gods and refusing it would have been crazy. As the food settled down, my eyes began to feel heavy and I had to call it a day. I crawled into my tent and zipped up my sleeping bag. Neha too joined me soon and then I heard Amitoz and Sonal saying good night as I was going into a deep slumber.
I had slept in the same position for hours and many bones of body nearly crushed under my own weight. At the break of dawn , I unzipped the tent window to see the surroundings outside. It was a beautiful day, a day I had not seen in many months. Soon, we all woke up and we ordered for some tea from the camp organizers. We also decided to go up till Tosh today and probably spent the night there. Here again, Om Negi helped us with some hotels in Tosh and gave us the bad news. Tosh had no places to camp. Doulos had too shared the same piece of information. The toilets at the camp were quite decent and we comfortably freshened up, packed our belongings, paid Om Negi. He charged us only for the food and not for the space. At some places, where Neha and
I had camped earlier, people took a nominal space rentals to pitch our tents and we were quite surprised that he allowed us to stay for free. We bid good bye and as nomads started walking back to Kasol. We had breakfast at Moon dance cafe aka German bakery. The food was great and so was the music. We decided to visit the place again for food on our way back home. The car was found in the same condition as we left and it was a relief. We had parked our car at the parking space of Kasol Camps.
We did inquire from their tariffs and they are as of June 2014 1. Rs 500 to pitch your own tent 2. If you want to use their tents then the tariff ranges from Rs 1500 to Rs 3500. Food and beverages extra. From Kasol, now we headed towards Tosh which is about a 90 minute drive from Kasol. The first town and one of major attractions is the town of Manikarn about 5 km ahead of Kasol. At Manikarn, a road forks up on the right hand side and this is the road that goes up to Bansheri. The road ahead was mostly rough, with loose gravel, water puddles and potholes. Though it is very much doable (easily) in a 2wheel drive, we engaged 4 H just to gain speed and stability at certain points. We stopped for a photography session and then headed to the town of Bansheri.
Here, we could see the construction of a dam and it seemed as if this place is waiting to be commercialised. From Bhansheri, Tosh is about 3 km steep ascent with extremely rough roads. Doulos had warned me of this and had advised to take a taxi in case it was raining. He did not know back then, that we were in a 4wd Scorpio. We did most of the ascent in two wheel drive but then we halted at a steep angle for photographs. Momentum was lost and now we needed traction to continue our journey. 4H was useless, and no way, I wanted to exert stress on the clutch. So, this time 4 L was engaged to climb.
The car just glided over the rough terrain. Should the readers of this post wish to take their vehicle up till Tosh, my recommendation is, keep the momentum stable and any vehicle can do this ascent. At Tosh, we had to park our vehicle just outside the village because there is no motorable road inside. A weak and narrow pedestrian bridge is the only entrance to the village. We called up Mr. Tari (Om Negi’s contact)
owner of the Pink Floyd hotel and asked him to get directions to his hotel. He asked us to walk into the village and ask anyone for directions. We decided to first check out the place and then assess what all would be required for a night’s stay and then bring in our luggage. The lanes of the village became quite narrow at certain stretches. The hotel is good 15 minutes walk from the parking spot. On the way to Pink Floyd we checked out another place which was just in the beginning of the village and the tariffs were around INR 200 a night, no attached bathrooms. The only advantage was that from its balcony we were able to see our car in the distance. We reached Pink Floyd, drained out of energies but did not really fancy the place. It was good, no doubt but we found the views from Hotel Sunset better. So we took two rooms at Hotel Sunset at INR 300 each. There was hot water, attached bathrooms and electricity for charging our camera batteries. There is a small tuck shop in the premises and a kitchen which can serve Italian, Israeli and Indian food. Wow! I am being greedy here, nevertheless, it is worth a mention- the downside are the bed sheets. They have dark colored bed sheets and pillow covers which means that they are not washed for quite sometime. It is advised to carry your own bedsheet and pillow covers. We ordered lunch and then Amitoz and I left the girls at the hotel and went to fetch our belongings for the night.
We were back in about 40 minutes and the girls were nowhere to be seen from a distance. While we had gone lugging bags, Neha and Sonal had gone on a short trek. They came back just in time of our arrival. From the hotel, we could see in the distance two waterfalls and two bridges. One of these waterfalls was a man-made cemented slide, yet the sheer force of the water was so magnificent that one could perceive it from the hotel. We enquired about the KheerGanga trek for next day but dropped the idea as we were short on time. While the locals said that one can do the round trip in a day, we urban corporate slaves were not the lot to walk so much in one day. We definitely needed two days. The village was quite deserted and from the hotel operators we learnt that most of the tourist have gone to the village of Pulga for a two day “rave” party. This part of the Himalayas is famous for rave parties. Weed is commonly called olive as it is sold in small black balls which resemble black olives. The hotel also told us about another waterfall which was 15 minutes away and we decided to check it out as there was still couple of hours of daylight available. We misunderstood the directions and started
walking on a different path. The 15 minutes trek took us nowhere closer to water. A few locals, we spotted on the way told us
that we had come the wrong way. We returned and found the correct trail. While walking, photographing, we met some fellow tourists and made another mistake of asking them for directions. These blokes were dressed in clothes one would wear to an office on a Friday. Totally out of place. They misguided us and put us on a different trail. Two of our group members tripped after different locations and it was kind of disheartening. Fortunately, no one got hurt. Around quarter to seven, we gave up the idea of the waterfall and headed back and decided to conquer it next day. An interesting thing happened here, we saw a man with a child playing on a natural rock slide. The crazy ones Amitoz and Neha were the first ones to burn their butts and Sonal and I needed some persuasion. As the last light approached, it was time to reach the hotel. We
ordered chicken and snacks and also got hold of olives😉. It was a full moon night and we stayed on the terrace munching, drinking, smoking and laughing till the temperature dropped to a moderate chill of 13 C. At this time (around 10 pm) the tuck shop and the kitchen also shut down and we retired to our rooms.
I was the first one to get up and get ready. Woke up rest of the party with some tea and Parle-G. Once everyone was ready, we headed towards the first waterfall which everyone at Tosh was talking about. The hotel staff advised us against the waterfalls visible from the hotel. They said that the water is so fierce and rogue that one wrong move and you will end up in a watery grave. Who listens to such things- not us! Anyway, this time we reached the 15 minutes away waterfall in about 15 minutes. Spent about an hour there and now headed for the falls which mesmerized us since our arrival in Tosh. Here is the route which we followed in June 2014. On the way to the “famous” waterfall there is a rock on which someone had painted waterfall 100 m ahead. At this rock a small water stream trickles down and it also seems to be a dumping ground. A narrow and rough trail goes along with water stream. Now keep following the only trail and keep descending for about 30 minutes. The entire route is quite beautiful except for a 20m garbage dump in the beginning. I have seen Doodhsagar from up close and trust me when I say this, this particular one is comparable to Doodhsagar and is just one day drive from Delhi. We reached back hotel around half past one and told them that we would be checking out. At 3 pm we were in our car and headed to the German bakery at Kasol for lunch. Kasol was crowded. We tried hard for a parking space but could not find it. We tried parking at the taxi parking area but the locals became too aggressive and thus we left. We stopped at The Himalayan Retreat at Jari and enjoyed some really good food. Tried the local dishes – Dham, Kachori and Siddu Momo. Here on, we drove nearly non-stop till Gurgaon stopping twice on the way, once for tea and another time for graveyard shift food at NH1. It took us nearly 9 hours to reach Kiratpur Sahib and another 6 hours to reach Gurgaon. Around 6.30 am, on Sunday we reached Gurgaon. It was a trip successfully completed and the experience was too good. Special thanks to Sonal for picking up the destination, Dheeraj Sharma for connecting to Doulos and to Doulos Jose for helping us connect to Om Negi. Now it was time to sort out the 1800 photographs clicked by us during the three days. By the way, we all tried our hands on our new photography gear. Sonal and Amitoz brought their new Nikon D3100, Neha and I got our new Nikon D5300 and a Nikon AW120. IPhone 5s also proved to be an amazing photography device with its fast f/2 lens. The trip not only helped us rejuvenate but also strengthened the bond amongst the “Chaar Log” (four people -term coined by the Bhandari brothers during our Rishikesh camping and rafting trip) Watch this space for more adventure and travel stories. Ciao!
We met Sonal and Amitoz (he and I share a desk at office) at a stand up comedy night in Nirvana County club and then at Epicenter for another comedy night. During dinner at Drift, we decided to go for rafting at Rishikesh the following weekend.
On 29 May, Neha got in touch with one of the organisers Vikrant Biswal through Facebook for camping and rafting in Rishikesh. Next day, I talked to Vikrant and understood what all was included in the package and confirmed booking for ‘chaar log’. By evening, before leaving for home Amitoz and I confirmed our plan for next morning. I woke up at 3 am and called up Amitoz to wake him up. He did not answer his phone. After 3 calls, I called up Sonal and the couple woke up. We met them at their home around 4.30 am.
We started our journey towards Rishikesh and took the Mohan, Meerut, Upper Ganga canal till Roorkee cantonment, Rajaji National Park through Cheela Dam and then through the Dugadda range, Laxman Jhoola to the camp site. The camp was located some 3 km ahead of Shivpuri next to the Rivera Resort.
The camp was being managed and operated by the Bhandari brothers -Roop Singh Bhandari and Teg Singh Bhandari. We met RP outside the resort and he identifed us as the chaar log, the group of four people. He got our car parked and asked us to take our belongings with us. The camp was situated some 300 meters down into the valley and the temperature was around 40 C when we started trekking downhill. By the time we reached and dumped our luggage into our assigned tent, lunch was served. Teg Singh warned us about swimming in the river and pointed some safe zones to stay in. As soon as we entered the water, we wanted more and more of it. Our skins cooled from scorching 40 C to a cool of 20 C. We had ordered
some beers which were put in a sack and tied to rock and dipped into the river to cool. We sipped on the beers while we enjoyed being soaked into the refreshingly cool water. As the sun hid behind the mountain in the west , we headed for the beach volleyball court and started a couples game. A few serves were thrown and none of the team could play the game well. We dropped the idea of volleyball and played several games of badminton. We played couples vs couples, swapped teams (arrest your kinky thoughts, please) and boys vs girls.
Between the matches we took breaks and cooled ourselves in the river.
After the evening snacks were served, we pulled out the beds from the alpine tents and started chatting over some more beers. As the night deepened, millions of stars shone into the black canvas over our heads. Neha spotted a couple of stray but bright meteors while we talked on topics of our respective love stories , relationships etc. The
dinner was getting delayed and I called it day and retired for the night.
Next morning, I woke up at the break of dawn. I could still see few stars as I lay awake in the bed overlooking the Ganges under the open sky. The next one to wake up was Sonal and the two of us fetched tea for our respective sleeping beauties. As the three of them sipped tea, we got ourselves booked into the pre-breakfast rafting groups. By 7 am, the sky darkened again, this time we rain and thunder. As it began to pour, we carried our bags up the trail to our car. For the chaar log, this was the first trek of the lifetime in the rain.
For me, it was quite an exciting trek. All the while, the jingle from Mahindra’s advertisement was playing in my head which goes like this, “We live young, we live free, we are the living”. By the time we reached our Mahindra Scorpio, we were completely drenched in the rain.
We had to wait a while before the rafting transportation vehicle came. The vehicle took us to the point which is called the Marine Drive. We made it a point to take a first pick at the rafting gear. We went for the best available hemelts, buoyancy aids and oars. We also profiled the other rafters and picked the ones who seemed okay to us. The initiation ceremony was – yes you
guessed right -the safety brief. Amitoz and I were positioned in the front of the raft, Neha behind me and Sonal behind her soulmate. We roared the raft through rapids, jumped into the water and had great fun. The water temperature read 19 C on my Casio Gshock.
We took a break for breakfast at our camp and then resumed the craziness. This time, Neha and I exchanged our position on the raft. At one of the rapids, our guide cum captain, permitted us to jump into the water. We were to hold the
perimeter ropes so as to remain attached to the raft. I jumped and then Neha jumped. I looked up and saw Amitoz and Sonal still sitting. He got late by a jiffy in jumping and now it wasn’t safe to leave jump into the ragging but shallow waters. My eyes searched for Neha and she wasn’t visible. I guided myself to the front of the raft and saw her holding a tethered rope instead of the perimeter rope. The freely swaying rope was not giving her stability in the rapid. While jumping, she had picked the wrong rope. It took me 10 seconds to reach her and pull her towards me.
Once we reached calm waters, We climbed up. And then, Amitoz jumped into the
water and invited me to join him.
We made a human chain so as to distance ourselves from the raft and yet be within rescuable distance from the raft. Now, we were on the last leg of our rafting trip. As we approached the shore, we all were attracted by the high velocity sound of the zipline above our heads. While we contemplated to go for zipping, we reached tge pickup point frpm where the transport vehicle was supposed to drop us back to the camp site. We waited for about 10 minutes and started to feel u easy in wet clothes. We took a lift from a dumper truck back to our car which was 3km away.
We changed into dry clothes, paid the guys and started journey back home. We started around noon and got stuck into several traffic snarls. It took us nearly 11hours to cover 300 km with two breaks for food and one break for kulfi ( an Indian frozen dairy dessert) . It seemed that the entire population of Delhi was in Rishikesh that weekend as there was very thin onward traffic towards Rishikesh.
Camping along the banks of the Ganges and rafting are surely refreshing activities and can be done more often if the traffic situation improves.
Universe has a plethora of amazing views and sites to display to us astronomers.
The scale of our solar system is negligible to the vastness of the universe. Still, some of best views of the universe are right there in our backyard. Saturn and Jupiter are one of the best viewed objects in our solar system. Venus too shows beautiful phases just like our Moon. We just need to know where and when to look.
Celestial bodies strictly follow mathematical equations which were laid down by Kepler, Newton and many others. This makes it easy for us to determine the exact position and timings of rare events such as the transit of Venus. Earth’s orbit around the sun places us third to Mercury and Venus. This allows the earthlings to view not only the phases of these two planets but also, though rarely, the motion of these planets across the disk of the sun relative to earth. These are termed as transits.
The transit of Venus follows a rather complex pattern; they occur in pairs separated by 8 years and these pairs occur every 105.5 years or 121 years. The next transit of Venus will occur in December of 2117. This makes it one of the rarest events for the living population of the planet. (Unless someone somewhere discovers the fountain of youth and makes it accessible only to astronomers or a breakthrough in cryogenics takes place and people can extend their lives at will)
Like many teams which were formed to witness this rare celestial event, we too formed a team and we called it Astrohams – which signifies the two hobbies which are astronomy and ham radio (also known as amateur radio). The team comprised of the following individuals
1. Puneit Thukral
2. Neha Thukral
3. Kaustav Saha
4. Tarveen Bhasin Saha
5. Eshaan Saha
We not only called ourselves Astrohams but also, combined both the hobbies during the transit of Venus.
The primary objective was to view the transit safely. The secondary objectives were to photograph, web-stream and SSTV streaming of the event so that the not so lucky ones can also witness this rare, once in a lifetime event
Selecting the Venue
Once an experienced amateur astronomer told me, that for a rare astronomical event, concentrate on location location and location. Rest everything will fall into place. And this is what we did. The transit occurred on June 06 2012 and it was visible at sunrise across India and most parts of the world. This gave us a huge geographical area to choose our location. Now, we had to look for a location where the probability of clouds during sunrise was low and of course has a clear view of the horizon so that the event can be witnessed as early as possible.
We didn’t have to look too far, the terrace of our house turned out to be good location. It had several advantages
1. We had high speed Internet access which would allow streaming the event live on the Internet
2. Our ham radio setup could be relocated easily on the terrace which would lower the setup time
3. There was no need for travel thereby saving travelling cost and time.
Thus we finalised our terrace as the location for transit of Venus. Having done that we registered our event with NASA as well.
Weeks before the transit, we began arranging for the most crucial element to a safe observation – a solar filter. Our friend, Sneh, helped us with a sheet of a solar filter with which we created filters for our cameras, binoculars and newly acquired 10″ Skywatcher telescope. We were going to use 4 cameras & 1 webcam for the transit. Also, we ran some rehearsals to understand the position of sun at sunrise at the horizon and calculated when the transit will be actually visible to us in case of clear skies. We made a list of things needed and also tested out Ustream broadcasting as well as SSTV transmission on Ham bands. Many of the Delhi Hams participated in this rehearsal and helped us fine tune our setup.
We had planned for months that we will be staying home a day before the transit in case we have to travel in the event of a bad weather. As with any major astronomical event, I was studying satellite images for days now and understanding the movement of cloud cover. During the month of May and early June Northern India receives pre-monsoon showers which are accompanied by dust and thunder storms. This is due to the low pressure area created by the heating landmass which sucks in dust and moisture laden winds from surroundings. And it is now an established fact the cities being warmer than countryside are more prone to dust and thunder storms. It had been raining a few evenings before the transit which made the morning sky clear. However, during the first week of June, a big patch of cloud covered major cities in India. Upon studying visible, infra-red and water vapour channels images sent out by Kalpana-1 satellite, I decided to stay put in Gurgaon, even though the evening looked as if the cloud cover will not dissipate. I had seen a break in the cloud cover and the motion over time suggested that we will have broken clouds to clear skies by morning.
The morning of 6 June arrived and we were ready with our setup by the break of dawn. We did some final test runs and then waited for the sky to clear up. The south and west were clear and the north and east were covered with broken clouds. However, a nice and cool breeze gave us the confidence that the clouds will be soon dispersed and we shall soon be able to witness the transit.
The glowing disk of our nearest star was first visible at around 6.30 am local time and it was the most beautiful sight of the day. The broken clouds acted as a natural filter making it safe for us to view the sun directly. At this stage our solar filters were too dark for the faint disk of the sun. Amidst the clouds, we could clearly see a tiny black spot on the face of the sun. It is the best picture of the Transit that we took that day.
As our planet turned on its axis, the Sun gradually gained altitude in the sky, increase its luminance every second. The sky cleared up too and soon we were looking at the Sun through protective solar filters. Having witnessed the Total Solar Eclipse of 2009 which just lasted over 3 minutes, 5 hours of Venus transit was like a lifetime. There was so much one could do in 5 hours.
Kaustav and Neha attempted to transmit live image of the telescope through the webcast of the event – Kaustav’s office colleagues guiding him over phone (they were watching us from their office) on how to achieve a good focus with the webcam. This of course was not very stable as it was not planned earlier and thus they were trying it for the first time. Many first time observers stumbled upon to us and we formed a ritual that was to be followed – at first the were supposed to look through protective filter without any magnification and then with binoculars and finally with the telescope. No one was allowed to jump this and go directly at the scope. We shared with them the significance of the transit and how the first organised transit of Venus helped mankind to understand the scale of the solar system.
Parallely, we were uploading photographs on social networks such as Facebook and Twitter as well as transmitting near live images of the transit through amateur radio equipment using the SSTV mode on 2m & 20 m bands. Even though we did not get a response on 20 m; there was appreciable activity on 2 m. Days later, I saw one of the received images on Facebook which we had transmitted. The view from the telescope was mesmerising. The black drop of Venus among the sunspots looked so pretty that there are no words that can describe.
Back in Hanle, the sky was overcast and there was no hope to see the sun. Soon our friends who were sitting at IIA looking at Hanle, saw our webcast and decided to embed it on the AAAD’s website. The screenshot of our webcast was viewed by the team at IIA showed up few days ago on Facebook.
The transit lasted till about 10.19 am IST and we were glad that we witnessed and publicised the last Venus transit of our lifetimes. A lot of non-astronomers and non-ham radio users also came to observe the transit through our setup.
The transit of Venus was one of the most spectacular astronomical events we witnessed and observed. We consider ourselves to be lucky to have successfully observed it. As the saying goes, “at the right place and at the right time”
We now await for the next great astronomical event – Comet ISON in November 2013. Watch this space.
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Neha and I visited this place in February of 2012. It was an impromptu short trip, and till 15 minutes before starting, we had no idea that we will be visiting the Chand Baori. On a regular Sunday morning, we were checking the social feeds on Facebook, when we saw a post by the Jeypore Bike Riders – a group on Facebook who had visited this place few weeks back. Within minutes the trip materialised and we were driving down towards Alwar. It took us close to 3 hours to reach the village of Abhaneri.
Located about 200 km (124 miles) from Gurgaon, in the village of Abhaneri, Rajasthan is an old baori (stepwell) which has almost faded into the history. Built in the 8th or 9th century by King Chand of the Nikumbha Rajputs of Chahamana dynasty, this stepwell was dedicated to the the goddess of joy and happiness – Harshshat Mata. The temple of Harshshat Mata is at adjacent to this beautiful architecture. It is one of the largest and deepest stepwells (20 meter deep with 13 levels) in India (source: http://www.jaipur.org.uk/excursions/abhaneri.html)
The first monument visible from the road itself is the Harshshat Mata temple, which is built on a double terraced platform mimicking the Mahameru style. Mahameru or the Great Meru is a sacred mountain in Hindu, Jain and Buddhist cosmology. This mountain is considered as centre of all physical, metaphysical and spiritual universes (a multiverse concept). Many a temples built by the Hindus, Jain and Buddhist are symbolic representation of this mountain.
From this temple a path runs towards the Chand Baori and the path takes you to a different world in a different time. All around are perfectly geometric patterns of steps, down to the water body. The periphery of the compound consists of alleys access to which was restricted. I wonder what’s inside them. Also can be seen statues carved out of stone and set into the walls and pillars of the stepwell.
Abhaneri is one of the places around Delhi which has not been explored by many people and one can see the places and come back home the same day. So, if you live in Delhi/NCR and you haven’t seen this place yet, plan a visit soon. Best time to visit this place is during winters when the days are cool and pleasant.
Higher up in the Himalayas the roads are difficult to maintain and keep motorable. Everyday is a tug of war between man and nature. Nature usually relents for a short span of time after which armies of men & women of GREF (General Reserve Engineer Force) of the Border Roads Organisation (BRO) use every available muscle and mechanised power to clear the roads in extreme conditions. The sections are frequented by landslides, brute force of water (streams, rain and snow), gales and earthquakes.
This journey of ours undertaken in the summer of 2013 travels along with the river Chenab through the remote areas of higher Himalayas covering Himachal Pradesh and Jammu & Kashmir. The roads we took are motorable on maps but barely motorable in reality. We crossed treacherous sections of mountains where no tarmac has ever been laid and no road roller has ever moved. Just the mountains have been blasted with explosives and cleared of debris. This journey travels through the roads of the Tandi-Udeypur-Tindi-Shour-Killar and Kishtwar.
The place of disclaimers is usually towards the end of a post and there is a reason for it being placed here. Should you get influenced by the post and decide to undertake this journey, you would do it at your own risk. We (Neha and I) indemnify ourselves from any mishap that you may face should you decide to undertake this journey. This post is not a guide or a route map but a memoir of our road trip.
The dry spell lasted this time for 4 months. Our last (short) road trip, was to Kufri with the offroading group, Terrain Tigers. Then came the end of the financial year, which for us, salaried people, is the time to indulge into compulsive savings to save tax and this translates to fewer funds to splurge.
Weekend road trips are usually impulsive, random and are done with less or no planning. But, there is at least some element of planning required for a trip lasting a week. Route plans have to be drawn in advance, halts need to be roughly kept in mind and then packing needs to be done accordingly. Neha and I had applied for leaves from office with no destination in mind, no route plan, nothing. We just knew that we are going somewhere, but where?
Till 31st May 2013, we were toying with the idea of the Rishikesh sector but thought that it will too short a trip to utilise the number of days in hand with us. The Spiti circuit was out of question as the Kunzum pass was not yet open. On Saturday afternoon, we narrowed our thoughts down to Chandra Taal trek, a lake in the Spiti valley much before Kunzum la. The next element was to assess if any gear is missing in our arsenal and voilà came the realisation that we did not have any trekking gear. A quick shopping drive followed to Satya Niketan in Delhi, where there are two shops selling trekking and adventure gear. While returning home, we chalked out the route plan which was something like this.
Day 1 – Gurgaon to Manali/Solang Valley
Day 2 Manali/Solang Valley – Rohtang Pass – Baatal – Chandra Taal
Day 3-4 Chandra Taal
Day 5 Chandra Taal – Rohtang Pass – Solang Valley
Day 6 Solang Valley – Gurgaon
This is what actually materialised
Day 1: June 02, 2013: Gurgaon to Solang Valley via Manali
We started at 1.30 am from home so that we reach well in time at Manali to apply for the permit to cross Rohtang pass next morning. Obtaining the permit was the main agenda of the day. For us, Manali or Solang valley was just a transit halt and we did not want to spend any extra time here. We entered Manali a little before 1 pm and by the time we found our way to the Mall road where the SDM office is located, it was almost 1.45 pm. Parking in crowded hill stations like Manali is always a challenge and while I struggled to find a parking space, Neha proceeded to the SDM office to procure the permit. The permit is issued free of cost after submitting an application (available at the photocopy shops in the vicinity) along with the copies of the car registration certificate and driving license. Sounds easy, isn’t it? It wasn’t. We reached Manali on a Sunday and everyone, right from travel agents to cops positioned at the Mall road believed that permit can not be obtained on a Sunday. They seemed so convinced that it was almost disheartening; a lot of people would have given up. Neha wanted to see for herself and headed alone for the office while I proceeded to park the vehicle.
She found the office empty but she did not stop looking. After a lot of searching, she ran into someone who guided her to the room in which permits were issued and by the time I joined her, the permit work was almost done. This was job half done. Hereon, we decided to check with the local adventure tour operators about the Chandra Taal. A day earlier, Neha had enquired about the route for Chandra Taal from a tour operator in Delhi and he quite convincingly said that the route was open till Batal and the lake is just 2 km away from the point road ends. Local tour operators in Manali had several versions on the status of the route.
The same people had said earlier with conviction that no way Rohtang permit can be obtained on a Sunday. Sometimes, it is best to check out things by ourselves, especially at places where man and nature are in a constant tug of war. We spent some time at the
Mall Road, had much needed lunch at a local eatery and then proceeded to Solang Valley where we had our hotel booked through HVK Facebook forum’s central helpdesk.
Enroute Solang, it suddenly struck me that we should refuel as fuel pumps may not be available after Manali. We had not gone far from the last available fuel station in Bahang. Soon, we had checked in Iceland Resorts in Solang Valley. A river stream passes close to this resort and we were attracted to it immediately. While we were walking down to the stream, we spotted two shepherd dogs in the meadow close by who were quite friendly and playful. We petted them and they followed us to the river stream. A few photographs later we were back at the hotel to have dinner and finally called it a day.
Day 2: June 03, 2013: Solang Valley – Rohtang Pass – Spiti road – Baralacha Pass – Sarchu
Rohtang pass used to be a mess when it came to traffic. It was not uncommon for cars to crawl and take 4 to 5 hours to cross this mountain pass. The permit system does not allow non-Himachal registered vehicles to go and visit the Rohtang pass. Permits are only issued to non-Himachal registered which have the intention of going to Leh, or Lahaul & Spiti valley. And then there is traffic movement restriction. From 6 am to 11 am vehicles are permitted to cross Rohtang Pass from Manali side. From 11 am to 1 pm, only cabs are permitted to enter the pass from Manali side. The road remains closed for traffic to carry out repair works from 1 pm to 3 pm and from 3 pm onwards traffic returning to Manali is allowed.
Having this information in advance was beneficial and we were at the Marhi checkpost at 5.40 am. There were about a dozen vehicles in front of us. At 6 am the checkpost allowed us to pass through. We made the best use of the power of our 4WD Scorpio and overtook all vehicles in-front of us. After that the whole section was a piece of cake. We completed the section in less than 90 minutes with many stoppages after the Rohtang top to click quick photographs. At Grumpu, we halted for breakfast and proceeded to the Spiti road. We could not resist to stop by the beautiful green meadows on the mountain side and relaxed for good 30 minutes before proceeding further. Short of 3 km on the road, we came
across an army vehicle and a volley of men clearing snow and ice from the road. The army officer shared that this was one of the three sections of road till Chota Dhara which were under snow rendering the road non-motorable. To make matters worse a snow clearing machine was stuck at one of the points. It turned out that the tour operators in Manali was fairly correct on the road being closed and Chandra Taal was now out of question.
We now decided to go and see Tso Moriri lake and thus headed towards Sarchu.We hardly would have covered 2 km and we were stuck once again due to a landslide. Fortunately for us, the road was being cleared by an earth moving machine. We refueled at Tandi, the last fuel station on the road to Leh.
The next one is 365 km away. While we were inching closer to Keylong, at a water crossing, the front right wheel started making grinding noise. We stopped and figured that some debris would have come between the brake-shoe and the disk. Since we could not see anything, we thought that removing the wheel will give us access to whatever is stuck and fix the problem. To our bad luck, while removing the wheel, the spanner slipped on one of the nuts damaging it. We had no option but to continue ahead. We would have gone a few hundred meters ahead that the noise stopped completely, but we still had one bad nut which would not unscrew should we have a flat on the way. So, we stopped over at a local road side car repair shop. In this
part of the country, a lot of Mahindra Boleros and pickups ply and finding such simple parts is easy. Twenty rupees lighter on the pocket, we got the bad part replaced and were back on the road. On the way to Sarchu we stopped to admire the beautiful Deepak Taal and Suraj Taal lakes.
Three years ago, we had got stuck at a water crossing while going towards Manali from Leh at Baralacha Pass. We were held up inside water for over 40 minutes till two passing vehicles offered their help and rescued us. We got stuck because the melting glacier had changed its course and was flowing in full force on the road instead of flowing under the bridge. Three years hence, the melting glacier had been tamed and made to flow where it was meant to. However, the place brought back difficult memories of the day.
We reached Sarchu an hour before dusk and set up camp close to a camping site. I started showing primary symptoms of altitude sickness. Afterall we ascended too fast, crossed two mountain passes in one day and were sleeping at 4290 m without acclimatisation.
Day 3: Sarchu towards Pang but back in Keylong
The symptoms of altitude sickness persisted through morning and I had a splitting headache upon waking up. The temperature inside our dome tent fell below zero and Neha’s nose had turned blue due to low temperature during the night. After the sun rose and we bathed in the warm light of our star, we felt better. Packed up and continued the journey for Tso Moriri. We were aware that an Inner Line Permit is required to visit the lake and the permit is issued from Leh; however, we wanted to take a chance and request the guards to let us pass through.
The road at Sarchu check post was closed and we learnt that a bridge had broken the previous night. A few truckers told us that we can go ahead on the route as the bridge was expected to be repaired in the next 30-40 minutes. We resumed our onward journey and we were the only car in our line of site which was travelling. A few miles on the road, we came across a bridge over a river connecting two mountains. There was no one around and we got anxious – what if, this is the bridge which is broken and if we move on this we just might go down with it. We surveyed the bridge for any visual signs of damage or any missing planks. It appeared to be in a good shape; we had crossed bridges in worse conditions earlier. We did manage to cross over and that too in the same condition that we started, it was quite a relief. Another bridge came and went. Some 20 km from the barriers, we saw a crowd of people and some cars parked just short of where the mountain ended into a run down bridge structure.
On first glance, it seemed as if someone had either stolen the metal plates of the bridge as only skeleton was hanging. Upon enquiring from the BRO officer, we learnt that the structure still standing is an old abandoned bridge and the actual bridge had washed away in a flash flood last evening. We were also told that a bulldozer had started at 5 am from Pang and was expected to reach the bridge site in a couple of hours. A day earlier on the way to Tandi, we came across two small landslides and in both instances the clearing took close to an hour. Even though we a have no knowledge in repairing bridges , we realised that even after the bulldozers reach, the repair work will take at least 2 days. We did not want to stay in Sarchu for 2 more days and decided to head back. Just when we started back for Sarchu, we were flagged down by two men, who wanted a hitch a ride back to Sarchu. It turned out that one of them was a retired colonel of Indian Army who was on a motorbike trip of the region. A night before, 2 out of the 3 bikes had crossed
over and one of their bikers could not make it in time to find the bridge. They had come down to check on their team member and found him safe. Col. Vinod Arora had some interesting information and anecdotes to share. We reached Sarchu and sat down for tea with him. A quarter of an hour later we were back on the road after biding goodbye to him and his team member. We reached Keylong around 4 pm and once again through the central registration desk of HVK Facebook Forum, we had our room booked in Hotel Tashi Delek. Upon reaching the hotel, we realised that we had stayed in the same hotel 3 years earlier when we did the Leh circuit on our Hyundai Accent. We had a lot of time on hand, so we went for a walk in the small market of Keylong and returned to the hotel after dining at a Tibetan restaurant. We called up HV Kumar and understood the route to one of the most treacherous roads in the country – Killar Kishtawar road.
Day 4: Keylong to Killar via Udeypur
The first and foremost step in the journey was fuel. Unlike the Leh Manali route where even in the absence of fuel stations, one can manage to get fuel, there is no such hope on the route we were about to undertake. It is a road less travelled by tourists and till the end of the journey we were the only non-local vehicle on the entire stretch.
Before I move ahead, I would like to share this important piece of information. While refueling at the Tandi fuel station, I happened to strike a conversation with the attendant. To my surprise, he revealed that there are days when they are out of fuel and have to wait up to 2 days for the fuel trucks to come. And most of the travelers on this route including us take the Tandi fuel station as a guaranteed refueling point before we hit Leh.
The road to Udeypur passes through lush green grasslands and plantations with little patches of the brown mountains. And to add to the marvel of the scenery, there are numerous waterfalls, several are on the roadside and others in the distance. We took our time admiring the route and photographing it. The road is rough on certain patches but nothing compared to what lies ahead of Udeypur. We had started our journey around 8 am and we reached Udeypur around 1 pm. On the way we took a 12 km round trip detour to Triloknath temple. This temple is a live example of the communal harmony of the Hindus and Buddhists of the region as both religious sects offer prayers at the same place and the same time. The temple has the statue of Triloknath or Lord Shiva and is a mix of Hindu and Buddhist architecture. We could not photograph the interior of the temple as it was prohibited but it was quite a surreal experience.
The life of the people in these sections of Himalayas is quite unique. In the village of Triloknath, while coming back from the temple, we came across a small shop on the roof of which cut brinjals were being dried in the sun. Our curiosity got the better of us and we couldn’t help but ask the women who were engaged in this task. The people of this village have to work hard during the summers, drying vegetables so that when they are cut off from the world in winters and nothing grows, they can survive on their stocked provisions. Everything is stocked for 6 months of winter, right from salt to soap. They plan each and every aspect of their lives in advance to sustain the winter. And, to beat it all, they believe in community service. Everyone works together and has a role in the small society that they have. Communication is on the mercy of the mobile service provider and nature herself. Randomly the service provider may decide to turn off the connectivity or nature would create conditions to cut off these people from the world earlier than winters. It is quite unlike the residents of big cities, who are not even aware who their neighbours are, forget about understanding their needs and rendering help when needed. With the advent of “delivered fresh in 30 minutes”, we city dwellers do not plan meticulously as these mountain dwellers do.
At Udeypur, we had lunch at a local dhabba and checked with local cops as well as local taxi drivers on the status of the road till Killar. While the taxi drivers said the road was open, two police officers expressed concern for us starting in the afternoon. They cautioned us
of the water crossings and advised us to ask for help from the GREF if we get stuck. Also, they advised us not to waste anytime and cross the major water crossings before 3.30 pm as after that they become almost impassable. HV Kumar also expressed his concern of us being late in starting from Udeypur. Had we not been so casual till Udeypur, we would have ample time in hand to reach Killar. But time was already lost and there was no point wasting time in mulling over lost time. We continued ahead. Around 2 km down the road, the surface changed from broken tarmac to a narrow dirt road and this slowed us down. We were told that to cover that 80 km distance to Killar, we would definitely need 5 to 6 hours. Four kilometers further on the road, we encountered our first water crossing which was not difficult. Six kilometers further down, we saw something that shook our confidence. No way, we could cross this one without getting towed. The water was flowing at its full force and appeared quite deep. We saw three labourers working on the crossing fighting water by filling large rocks in gaps created by the brute force of water. One of them, showed us the narrow path they had been able to fill completely from where our vehicle could cross to the other side. We were taking a big chance as the underlying rocks could get displaced from their position while we were crossing the stream. We put the vehicle in 4 wheel low ratio gear mode and proceeded. The vehicle articulated over the rocks, through the water effortlessly and we breathed a sigh of relief. While, we may have gone across the water in 2 wheel drive mode as well, but the probability of getting stuck was quite high. A wrong move or slip towards the gorge side would mean instant end of the trip. The condition of the road beyond this point had further worsened and now we were now driving on spurred roads. Half an hour later, the weather changed and dark clouds covered the region. Even though my casio watch was constantly showing weather to be on the fine side, it had started drizzling. It was a bad sign. The whole mountain range on
which we were driving is highly susceptible to landslides caused by rain and gale. Loose stones and rocks are carefully balanced on each other on the cliff side of the mountain. A small external force caused by any of the natural or manmade sources would disturb this delicate balance and gravity would do the rest. It is not uncommon for random landslides in this region. And, if we were to get stuck, expecting help at that time of the day was like expecting to run into an oasis in Thar desert. And then, worse could have happened. We could be targets of these falling rocks and a large one could push us down in the Chenab river following several hundred feet below. Earlier in the day we had seen small pebble sized stones shooting down on the road a few meters in front of us. One just needs to be in the wrong place in the wrong time.
Rain made us worry a lot and even though how much we wanted to hurry, we could not. We were covering 10 to 15 kilometers in a hour at max. Going faster would mean risking the approach angle of a blind turn and we would be sleeping with the bears and other animals in the forest below – should we survive such a fall.
Around 2 pm, we came across a third water crossing or should I say 200-300 meters long river bed crossing uphill. In fact, it was a rogue waterfall, whose flow had changed its course and was now following on the road for quite a distance. This section came upon us suddenly after a blind turn. Looking at this vast flow of water, we stopped. Up in the distance, we saw a lot of people and three trucks parked.
These were the GREF guys and they were repairing the roads. This instilled some confidence to cross this section as if we were to get stuck, we could always request/beg the truck to tow us out. Engaged 4WD low 2nd gear and started moving. At first the water was only an inch deep but with every turn of the wheel uphill, the depth increased. By the time we reached the waterfall, we were in quite deep water. Without increasing or decreasing the approach speed, we continued ahead and managed to cross over. We breathed a sigh of relief and stopped. We met the GREF guys and asked them about the road up ahead. Their leader was a guy from Haryana and seeing our Haryana registered vehicle, quickly came towards us and greeted us with humility. We reciprocated. He shared that this was the most treacherous of the crossings and many a people get stuck here. Every morning, they start their battle with the water here and by evening they returned home relenting to the force of water. And had we been here 2 hours later, they would have gone home and we would have been by ourselves. He also shared that the road till Killar was fine with no such death traps. However, he warned us that the road gets quite narrow and at places we need to be careful on our approach angle, else…, (silence)
Around 3 pm, we reached the village of Tindi and there we enquired about the road ahead. We ran into a GREF truck driver who was returning from a day long hard labour. His brought in news which we never expected. He told us that up ahead, his team is set to blast the mountain to widen the motorable path and unless we cross into Killar by 5 pm, we are likely to get stuck in the middle of nowhere in the blast zone. Clearance of debris following a blast takes anywhere between 8 to 48 hours. The leader we met earlier on the water crossing didn’t warn us about this. Did he forget? Was he messing with us? Is this guy messing with us? There was no time to waste debating; it was time to panic. No way, we wanted to get stuck in this place. We wanted to move ahead. This also meant, that there is no looking back hereon. If we cross into Killar, we must keep moving ahead into Kishtwar and further ahead to Jammu road. We drove a wee bit faster and we were now constantly running on 4 wheel high mode. This mode brings in more traction on bad surfaces and helped us articulate the spurred and rocky path with much finesse. A dozen kilometers ahead we met some more people and finally a vehicle going in our direction. We stopped and asked. The leader at the waterfall did not forget to warn us nor was he messing with us. It was the truck driver – a$$h013! Okay, so here is truth. The mountains do get blasted once a week, on a Friday or Saturday. Today, they were drilling holes into the cliff to make space for explosives. At the village of Shour, this was validated. We saw teams drilling holes in the cliff. We rechecked with them and one of them expressed concern that if we wanted to return this path after Friday, we may not be able to. Did he say, return? No, never!
Around 6 pm, we were at Killar and headed to the government rest house located near the helipad. Shocking it was, the place was booked. Turns out people from L&T Hydro electric power project were staying the night here. Next we went to the only hotel in the town, Chamunda View Palace. This palace is the town’s watering hole and was sold out as well! Now, what? There is a homestay called Chandrabhaga. This place was also sold out. Apparently, elections were close by in this town and political strata and cops were staying in the hotels. Now what! sleeping in the car, was an option. So I went to get the car to in order to find a parking space while there was still some light. The owner of the Chamunda View came up to me and asked if we managed to get a room. And then, he said that he has one room which is in shambles which is left out and he can give it to us. During our Bhutan drive, we got a similar room in Gopalganj and slept in our sleeping bags. It was better than staying in the car, at least we both can lay horizontal and not be exposed to the cold night of the himalayan hamlet. It took us an hour to set the room – a lot of room freshener was sprayed, and the bedding replaced by our own. Food also came from our luggage and we called it a day.
Day 5: Killar – Kishtwar – Batote-Gurgaon (24 hours non-stop drive back home)
At 5.30 am we were in the car, driving towards Kishtwar. We were forewarned by many about this road. Everyone had one common thing to say. Only the real adventurer dare to travel on this path. The road here becomes so narrow that there is barely space to keep all four wheels on the track. And then there are steep hairpin bends; bends where one can not turn the vehicle in one go. There is not enough space to turn the vehicle in one go. You traverse half turn and then reverse and then move ahead. All this needs to be done, with loose rocky surface which gives away without warning and then there is raging Chenab river in the valley below. This route has done no provisioning for errors. One mistake, one wrong move on these cliffhangers and it is the end of your journey and definitely, the end of life.
An hour after driving here,
we came across the Himachal Pradesh border before the Sansari Nalah. The barrier was in closed position and I walked up to the guards to fill in our details. The details are taken to inform the next of kin incase you don’t make it to across the treacherous path. They offered us tea and we chatted with them for quite some time, understanding how they work and in what conditions. We also tried to find out what to do in case there is a breakdown. Both the guards expressed grim concern over the question. The answer was quite expected and disheartening – you are stuck. They too warned us of the path up ahead and asked us to be slow and extra careful. And, they were right and so was everybody with whom we shared about this trip. The hairpin bends were extremely steep climbs on rocky surface. No way, I was going to try doing it in 2 wheel drive. I had learnt the skill of rock climbing with the offroading group – Terrain Tigers and it was time to implement it. Mahindra’s Scorpio behaved amazingly well and we kept going without any problem. Of course, we had to articulate some turns in steps, which meant reversing up to the edge of the road and here the strong team Neha and I are, displayed our best coordination skills.
This route has some of the best waterfalls we have seen in our life and that too on the side of the roads. We just couldn’t resist stopping at most of them. At Tiyari village, we had breakfast. While eating the local dhabba person shared that last year 3 vehicles with people went down into the gorge and were never retrieved. Upon enquiring about the occupants of the vehicle, he said that their identities were determined by the records maintained by Himachal and J&K checkpost people. The road becomes slightly broader till Gulabgarh from here but only in some small sections. Soon we came across a village where a railing less wooden bridge was the only way to cross the stream of water. The road leading to the bridge and following it was quite steep which translated into maintaining an optimum momentum in order to approach the bridge and then to climb to the road following it. Being railing-less and extremely narrow, the precision had to be accurate to the inch. There was simply no room for error.
The force of water flowing under it was adding to the building tension. It was just crazy. We crossed the bridge alright, but lost momentum on the ascend and stalled. Flexed the handbrake to its extreme position and yet on depression of the clutch the vehicle was slipping into the stream of water as if it had a huge magnet inside it. It seemed as if we were done for. Once again, the 4WD low gear came handy and we were out of this mess.
After Gulabgarh, tarmac can be felt on the road and it is a relief. The narrowness of the road continued on various sections especially turns. Tarmac also meant, more vehicular
traffic and thus the chances of being stuck in a bad zone increased manyfold. We somehow managed to reach Kishtwar in one piece. We refueled at Kishtwar and proceeded to Batote. Around 4 pm, we were in Batote and called up HV Kumar from a local payphone enquiring about the route plan till Pathankot. Our phones were not working in this section and thus we had no navigational aids. Neha and I decided to go home now. We were more than content with the scenic beauty since last few days and the beauty at Killar-Kishtwar route was icing on the cake and hence, regular hill stations like Patnitop had no value for us.
We started driving towards home and joined a huge traffic snarl at Patnitop. We waited for more than 30 minutes before the mess sorted out and we resumed our journey. We reached Pathankot via Udyampur , Ramkote and Lakhanpur around 9 pm. I asked Neha to sleep on the rear seat of the car and by 1 am we were at Roopnagar. She took over the driving and I rested for a while. Around 3,30 am, we had food at the dhabas in Murthal and entered Delhi around 5 am. By 5.45 am we were home. We had done it! Not only we drove through a very difficult terrain but also drove non-stop for 24 hours.
A special thanks for Kumar HV, for tracking us and guiding us throughout the trip.